Diamond Shapes Guide: Round, Oval, Pear, Emerald, Cushion

Shape is the most visible choice you make in a diamond, and it is the one that is purely personal. It is also different from cut quality, which is about proportions and sparkle. Here are the shapes you will meet most often.

Round brilliant

The classic. A round brilliant is cut to return as much light as possible, which is why it is often the most sparkly shape. It suits almost any setting and is the shape most often used for solitaires. Because there is high demand and a lot of rough diamond is lost in cutting, round stones can cost more per carat than other shapes of the same quality.

Oval

An elongated round. Ovals have good brilliance, and the lengthened outline can make the stone look larger for its weight and make the finger look longer. Look out for a "bow-tie", a darker band across the middle that is visible in some ovals.

Pear

A teardrop with one rounded end and one point. It is elegant and works as a ring, pendant or drop earring. Because of the point, it needs a secure setting, often with a prong at the tip.

Emerald

A rectangular step cut with cropped corners. It has long, clean lines and a hall-of-mirrors effect, rather than sparkle. Emerald cuts show clarity clearly, so a higher clarity grade is usually preferred.

Cushion

A softly squared shape with rounded corners, like a pillow. It has a romantic, vintage look and good brilliance. It suits halo settings well.

Princess

A square brilliant. It is bright, modern and sits well in prong settings, with the corners protected by prongs. The corners can chip if they are knocked, so a good setting matters.

Marquise

A long, pointed oval, like a boat. It gives a large look for its weight and elongates the finger. Pointed ends need protection in the setting.

Radiant

A rectangle or square with cut corners, faceted like a brilliant. It combines the outline of an emerald with the sparkle of a round.

Heart and others

Heart shapes are romantic but require a skilled cutter to look good. Asscher, trillion and other fancy shapes exist, and each has its fans.

Choosing a shape

• For maximum sparkle: round, or a brilliant-cut square such as the princess or radiant.
• For a larger look: oval, marquise or pear, which spread the weight across a longer outline.
• For a vintage look: cushion or emerald.
• For everyday wear: shapes without sharp points or corners, such as round, oval and cushion, are the least likely to catch.

Shape and setting

The setting should protect the shape's weak points. See diamond ring settings: prong, bezel, halo and more. For engagement rings, compare oval, round and cushion diamond engagement rings.

Common questions

Which shape looks biggest? For the same weight, elongated shapes such as marquise, oval and pear usually look larger face-up than a round.

Which shape is the most durable? Round and cushion shapes have no sharp corners and are the least likely to chip.

Does shape change the price? Yes. Round brilliants tend to cost more per carat, because demand is high and more rough is lost in cutting them.

Seeing is deciding

Photographs flatten shapes. If you can, view a few in person. Book an appointment at our Patna showroom, or begin with our selection of diamond rings.