Melee Diamonds: The Small Stones in Jewellery

Look closely at a diamond pendant with a cluster, a halo ring or a band that sparkles all the way round. The sparkle comes from many small diamonds, usually called melee (pronounced "mel-ay").

What counts as melee?

Melee is the term for small diamonds, generally under about 0.2 carat each, used as accents or in groups. Even tiny stones, only a point or two in weight, are cut with the same care and are set one by one.

Why they are not certified individually

Grading a laboratory report for each stone would cost more than the stone itself. So jewellery with melee is usually described by:

• the number of stones,
• the total carat weight, and
• a quality range for the group, such as colour EF and clarity VVS to VS.

You will see this written on a product page or an invoice. For a deeper look at weight in these pieces, read total carat weight in diamond jewellery.

Why a range?

Small stones are sorted in batches and matched by colour, size and cut so that they look consistent together. Within a batch there is a small natural variation, so the quality is stated as a range rather than a single grade.

Does melee quality matter?

Yes, but in a different way from a solitaire. For a group of tiny stones, what matters is that they are consistent in colour, well cut so that they sparkle, and cleanly set. A piece with well-matched melee looks bright and even. A piece with mismatched stones looks patchy.

How to judge a piece with melee

1. Colour match: the stones should look uniformly white or uniformly warm, with no obvious odd ones.
2. Sparkle: hold the piece under a light and tilt it. Look for lively, even sparkle.
3. Setting quality: each stone should sit firmly, with no gaps and no loose stones.
4. Metal finish: the metal between the stones should be clean and neatly finished.
5. The description: the number of stones, total weight and quality range should be clear.

Total weight and price

The total carat weight of the melee in a piece affects its price, as does the quality range. Two pieces with the same total weight can differ in price if one uses finer stones. See how jewellery price is calculated step by step.

Durability

Small stones are held by tiny prongs or beads. They are secure when well made, but wear and knocks can loosen them over the years. Have pieces checked now and then, as in how often to check your jewellery prongs and clasps.

Where melee shines

• Cluster and halo designs, where the stones add up to a larger look. See solitaire vs cluster diamond jewellery.
• Pavé bands and bracelets, which glitter along their length.
• Studs and pendants, where small stones give lively sparkle at a modest cost.

What to ask

Ask for the stone count, the total carat weight and the quality range, and ask how the stones are secured. You can see these details on our diamond pendants, and you are welcome to book an appointment to inspect the stones through a loupe.