How Custom Jewellery Design Works, Step by Step

Having a piece of jewellery made for you is not as mysterious as it sounds. Whether it is an engagement ring, a pendant or a redesign of old jewellery, the process follows a similar path.

Step 1: the brief

You describe what you want: the kind of piece, the stones, the metal, the budget and the occasion. Pictures help a great deal. Bring examples of designs you like and say what you like about them, such as the shape, the setting or the proportions.

Step 2: the sketch or reference

The designer turns the brief into a sketch or selects reference images. At this stage the idea is flexible. You can say what you would change.

Step 3: the 3D model

Many jewellers use computer-aided design (CAD) to build a 3D model. It shows the piece from every angle, with the stones in position. You can ask for changes to proportions, the setting or the thickness of the band. A model can often be rendered as images, so that you see how it will look.

Step 4: approval and quote

Once you are happy with the model, the jeweller confirms the specification and the price. This should include the metal and purity, the weight estimate, the stones and the making charges, with a breakup. See how jewellery price is calculated step by step. Agree the timeline in writing.

Step 5: a sample or wax

For some pieces, a wax or resin print of the model is made so that you can see and try it. It is useful for rings, since it shows the fit and the size.

Step 6: casting and making

The model is turned into metal. In the usual method, a mould is made from the wax or print and the gold is cast in it. The cast piece is then cleaned and shaped by hand.

Step 7: setting the stones

Skilled craftsmen set the diamonds or gemstones, securing each one. For a solitaire, a certified stone is chosen. See diamond certificates.

Step 8: finishing and hallmarking

The piece is polished and finished, and gold jewellery goes for BIS hallmarking, which adds the purity mark and HUID. See BIS hallmark marks explained.

Step 9: inspection and delivery

The jeweller checks the piece against the agreed specification: weight, stones, finish and fit. You then inspect it and take delivery with the invoice, certificate and hallmark details.

How long does it take?

It depends on complexity. Simple pieces may take a few weeks, and intricate ones longer. Ask for a timeline at the start, and add a buffer if there is a date to meet. See wedding season jewellery shopping timeline.

What to ask before you start

1. Who designs and who makes the piece?
2. How many changes are included before the price changes?
3. What happens if I do not like the final piece?
4. How are returns and alterations handled for made-to-order items?

Common questions

Can I use my own stones or gold? Often yes. The jeweller will test and weigh them first. See redesigning old family jewellery into modern pieces.

Is custom more expensive? It can be, because of the design work. It can also be cost-effective if it makes use of stones or gold you already own.

Start your design

You can send us your idea through our custom design page, or book an appointment to talk it through.